A Small Revolution at a Bodega near Porreres

The winery sits just outside Porreres on a sandy, stony hill you would hardly expect from the main road. The family began growing grapes here already in the mid-20th century, and what I like about the story is that it's not a glamorous founder, but a neighbor pressing grapes for the people around. Today the grandchildren run the estate. They have changed quite a bit: less chemistry, more hands in the soil, and biodynamics tested over several years. On site you feel the change immediately. There are corners where olive and fig trees grow among the vines, beehives hum and the path to the garage is filled with the smell of fresh earth. The owners are open and talk about setbacks (a very wet spring that made the harvest tight) and small victories (vintages in which the wines became very friendly and precise). Important to know: the winery sells directly from the farm; the Chardonnay and Rosat bottles are independently certified and often available at moderate prices. Those who browse will still find small plots with old vines and experiments such as reduced copper uses or horse plowing in interesting places. All this makes the visit not only a tasting but a small time travel through local agriculture and artisanal decisions.

The winery sits just outside Porreres on a sandy, stony hill you would hardly expect from the main road. The family began growing grapes here already in the mid-20th century, and what I like about the story is that it's not a glamorous founder, but a neighbor pressing grapes for the people around. Today the grandchildren run the estate. They have changed quite a bit: less chemistry, more hands in the soil, and biodynamics tested over several years. On site you feel the change immediately. There are corners where olive and fig trees grow among the vines, beehives hum and the path to the garage is filled with the smell of fresh earth. The owners are open and talk about setbacks (a very wet spring that made the harvest tight) and small victories (vintages in which the wines became very friendly and precise). Important to know: the winery sells directly from the farm; the Chardonnay and Rosat bottles are independently certified and often available at moderate prices. Those who browse will still find small plots with old vines and experiments such as reduced copper uses or horse plowing in interesting places. All this makes the visit not only a tasting but a small time travel through local agriculture and artisanal decisions.

The winery welcomes visitors in a bright tasting room and on a shaded terrace that invites you to extend the tasting on warm days. Tours should be booked in advance; I once did a later afternoon tour with a view over the vines in the evening light – that sticks with you. Procedure: a short introduction to the family history, a walk through the vines with explanations about parcels and care, a look into the cellar and then four to six wines to taste, usually including Rosat, Chardonnay and two reds from their own plots. Prices are fair; there is often a small tasting package for around ten to fifteen euros per person; individual bottles at the farm are below what large retailers charge. In summer the farm occasionally transforms into an event venue: small concerts, a dinner with local producers or a fashion show where jewelry made from vine material is displayed. Such evenings are intimate, with limited seats – so sign up early. For larger groups a menu can be arranged; vegetarian options are available. Phone or email works well for reservations, and the hosts are usually bilingual. If you come by car, park carefully on the access road; please respect the neighborhood and don't arrive late to evening events, which in rural areas often start on time.

The wine selection on site is concise, which I very much like – not an overloaded shelf, but clear decisions. Notably a fresh Chardonnay and a rosé-like Rosat made from Merlot and Cabernet components, both from their own parcels and organically certified. The Chardonnay shows a slight creaminess in the glass, but always with crisp acidity; it pairs well with grilled fish, a simple lemon butter or even baked zucchini. The Rosat is drier than many commercial rosés, with strawberry and cherry notes; ideal with tapas, roasted almonds or a simple tomato salad. The reds are varied – from fruit-forward wines to more compact cuvées that benefit from Merlot and Cabernet vines. My recommendation: open one bottle now and take another home to let it age for a year or two. Prices at the farm are friendly; for gifts the hosts are happy to add a handwritten note. For collectors: ask about small-plot editions. There are vintages bottled in very small quantities, often with their own label. Such bottles make wonderful souvenirs from Mallorca or a memory of a relaxed afternoon among the vines.