Christmas in Mallorca: Old Customs, New Joy

The scene at Palma's port on January 5th is always something special. You stand on the steps at La Llotja or on the Passeig Marítim, shivering, with a hot drink in your hand, and wait for the ship. It arrives with trumpets, fireworks and an amazing choreography: actors, musical groups and a well-oiled team that directs everything along the pier. The three kings disembark, quickly change their cloaks for magnificent robes and put on their crowns. Afterwards the procession moves through Jaume II and the Born to Plaça Cort. Children stretch out their hands, parents catch sweets – if you don't hold onto your bags, you'll come away empty-handed. I remember a little boy who had a whole sea of paper confetti in his hair and still grinned broadly. If you're coming with children: plan the ship and the parade as the day's highlight, but expect crowds and take small snacks. In Palma the parades are biggest, but the heart of the tradition can be felt all over the island – at small quays as well as in the large cathedral when the nativity scene is still empty and the streets glitter.

The scene at Palma's port on January 5th is always something special. You stand on the steps at La Llotja or on the Passeig Marítim, shivering, with a hot drink in your hand, and wait for the ship. It arrives with trumpets, fireworks and an amazing choreography: actors, musical groups and a well-oiled team that directs everything along the pier. The three kings disembark, quickly change their cloaks for magnificent robes and put on their crowns. Afterwards the procession moves through Jaume II and the Born to Plaça Cort. Children stretch out their hands, parents catch sweets – if you don't hold onto your bags, you'll come away empty-handed. I remember a little boy who had a whole sea of paper confetti in his hair and still grinned broadly. If you're coming with children: plan the ship and the parade as the day's highlight, but expect crowds and take small snacks. In Palma the parades are biggest, but the heart of the tradition can be felt all over the island – at small quays as well as in the large cathedral when the nativity scene is still empty and the streets glitter.

January 6th belongs to the children. Everywhere roscón is shared, a crown-shaped pastry with candied fruit. Whoever finds the hidden bean gets to wear the paper crown for the day. In many villages it's customary to put shoes with hay by the window so the camels can find something – and in the morning there are small gifts.

In the countryside there is less fireworks and more humour: kings arrive by carriage, donkey or even tractor. They land on the beach, in small harbors they disembark and hand out sweets to the children. These intimate parades are less spectacular but more heartfelt and uncomplicated.