When a US aircraft carrier anchors off Palma and 4,500 Marines disembark, a clear sign is posted in a downtown bar, and the island debates between business and principle.
A Sign and Plenty of Conversation
Last Friday, Palma saw an unusually large number of uniforms: the USS Gerald R. Ford, a massive warship, had anchored in the bay. About 4,500 crew members left the ship, put on sunglasses, and dispersed along Passeig del Born, in cafés, and on the beaches. Most were in good spirits, some wore boots, some flip-flops. And then, in the middle of the old town bustle, a sign at a bar that became talk of the town.
No Easy Decision for Hosts
The bar is less than ten minutes from Plaça Cort, on a street that in the afternoon still smells of fried fish and coffee. At the door hung an English-language notice making it clear that military personnel are not welcome there. The owner, a resolute woman I met at the counter who preferred to remain anonymous, said this was a conscious stance. It is our decision, she said, and added that it costs us revenue.
On the other side, merchants and restaurateurs along Playa de Palma and in Magaluf were happy about clearly full tables and unexpected tips. For many of us, this is a last-season boost, explained a spokesperson for a local restaurant association, emphasizing that the economic side could not be ignored. Clear words, but different priorities.
Between Politics and Everyday Life
That a modern warship lies off the island triggered not only consumer reactions. Left-wing groups criticized the maneuver as a symbolic act of militarism; others see it merely as a military exercise with logistical consequences. On the plaza, that day, there was a strange mix: children with hero stickers, older women questioning the presence, and vendors offering T-shirts with ship illustrations.
I spoke with guests in a cafe. Some said uniforms should not be celebrated here; others said that visitors are welcome, regardless of what they wear. Not an easy answer. And for a local bar owner like the one on the edge of the old town, it's an everyday balancing act: show stance or accept the economic benefit?
What Remains?
The sign is small. The discussion is big. Palma once again offers a picture typical of the island: pragmatism meets idealism. Whether more revenue or more principle counts in the end probably depends on the street and the shop. For the island residents, it was at least a topic of conversation – over a cortado and with the door open into the warm October night.
Keywords: USS Gerald R. Ford, 4,500 Marines, Palma, gastronomy, protest
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