
When Chile Meets the Mediterranean: A New Flavor at Can Bordoy
When Chile Meets the Mediterranean: A New Flavor at Can Bordoy
At Can Bordoy in Palma's old town, Chilean chef Jhonatan Maldonado combines Patagonian seafood with Mediterranean island ingredients — served on a shaded terrace beneath old trees.
When Chile Meets the Mediterranean: A New Flavor at Can Bordoy
On the terrace of Botànic, the restaurant at Can Bordoy, two things mingle that at first glance don't seem to belong together: the salty, cool breath of the Patagonian sea and the sunny, herbaceous aroma of the Mediterranean. The reason for this sits at the stove: Jhonatan Maldonado, a chef from Chile who has since been forging his own path in Palma.
The menu Maldonado calls “Pewma,” offered for €140, leads guests through a series of flavor combinations. Especially striking is the pairing of Patagonian shellfish with Menorcan cheese — a clash of textures that plays out on the plate differently than in theory. In addition to this dish, the offering includes eight more courses, sometimes sparing, sometimes lavish.
Sitting there on a late September evening, you hear the soft clatter of cutlery, the distant drone of scooters in the old town alleys, and the rustle of leaves above the terrace. Waiters balance plates between small tables; among the guests are locals and well-off holidaymakers who have booked one of the house's 24 suites — a recurring picture since the 500-year-old townhouse was converted into a boutique hotel in 2018.
The setting is deliberately intimate: an old town palazzo with patina, trees that provide shade, and a calm, almost tropical atmosphere. Maldonado himself likes to frame his work in a few literary lines; this is not self-staging but a way he connects taste and memory. His signature is experimental, but never arbitrary.
For Mallorca this is a small plus: a kitchen that builds bridges. It brings new voices to a scene that is already open — from simple bars to upscale establishments. Such offerings attract not only gourmets but also travelers searching for culinary stories, enlivening the old town around the hotel.
The house itself has a remarkable history: a Swedish owner transformed the palace into a boutique hotel with 24 suites a few years ago. A new director has been running the property since; the operation is aimed at guests who consciously seek something special. Combined with a kitchen like Maldonado's, this creates a small, well-tuned unit.
What is appreciated about projects like this is their small-scale impact. A menu like “Pewma” creates threads of conversation between chefs, producers and guests. When a Patagonian lobster sits next to a local cheese, conversations arise about origin, fishing, and artisanal cheese making. That opens doors for local suppliers and draws attention to island products.
A practical tip for the curious: plan some time if you go. This is not about quick plates but about a deliberate meal. Terrace seating is limited; on late evenings warm lights and the rustling of the trees create a pleasant mood.
It's nice to see how international influences and local ingredients come together in Palma. Not everything is new, but the combinations surprise. For the city this means: more variety, more conversation, and a small reminder that Mallorca's gastronomy is far from finished.
Those who want to be inspired will find in kitchens like this an invitation to try: different products, different techniques, and personal notes in a menu. And on the Botànic terrace, after the last course, you are often left with the feeling that you have experienced something that tells of distant coasts as well as of local trees.
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