Contrallum: Sineu Shines Tonight by Candlelight

Contrallum: Sineu Shines Tonight by Candlelight

The village amid almond groves becomes a quiet stage — lights from 6 to 9 pm

If you stroll through Sineu this evening you will notice one thing first: it is noticeably darker than usual. The usual streetlights stay off, and the alleys between Plaça Major, Carrer del Sol and the road to the town hall are lit in a different way. Candles, torches and carefully placed light installations take over — in total eleven stations are spread across the town centre.

Contrallum is the festival that once a year transforms the small town in the middle of the island. The idea is simple and a little poetic: monuments, old façades and fountains are not bathed in harsh artificial light, but staged with delicate backlighting. The result is not a spectacle but a closely listened-to evening walk in which shadow and light tell stories.

The organisers switch off the street lighting for the duration of the event. The only exceptions are candles and torches; electronic spotlights are not part of the concept. That makes the difference: conversations sound warmer, footsteps on the cobblestones feel more pronounced, and sometimes you can hear distant church bells marking the passage of time.

Practical information for visitors: the exhibition is open today from 6 to 9 pm. The eleven stations are laid out so you can take a relaxed circuit — ideal for families, couples or anyone wanting a break from the Christmas bustle. The official Contrallum website provides a map with the route for those who want to plan their visit.

Those who live in Sineu or are visiting quickly notice how good such a festival is for the island's centre. It brings people to the square, fills cafés and bodegas in the narrow streets and shifts the focus away from beaches and resorts to villages that often disappear in the tourist flow. Local performers and small shops benefit because visitors stay, listen and have a drink.

A few tips for the evening: wear sturdy shoes — the streets are cobbled. Dress warmly — the island's interior is cooler in the evening than the coast. Put your phone on silent to avoid disturbing the atmosphere; photos work best without flash. And: respect the installations. Much of the appeal comes from proximity, but not from touching.

For families, Contrallum is a small adventure. Children with lanterns often lead the way, parents follow in the lamplight. For couples it is a local moment of romance in mid-December without the usual stage lighting. And for locals it is a reminder that Mallorca is more than promenades and hotels: it is the villages, the festivals and the dark nights with small flames.

If you are planning to go to Sineu tonight: parking is limited, and travelling by bus can be more relaxing than hunting for a space near the centre. After 9 pm the usual lighting returns — but the images of the evening linger longer. An evening when you notice how light and darkness together create a feeling rarely found in the December rush.

If you've never seen the lights festival, don't miss it. It is not an event to rush through but a slow walk where you pull your coat closer, warm your hands and suddenly look up to see something you wouldn’t expect in the harsh everyday light.