When Mallorca Smells of Chain Oil Again: Autumn High Season for Cyclists

Autumn in Mallorca means: pedals, mountains and early-morning espresso

It almost sounds like a local rumor, but it's true: when the sun slides low over the Bay of Palma in the mornings and the wind is still cool, a second wave of cycling rolls across the island again. After the Ironman Mallorca and the Mallorca 312 in spring, it's now the weeks after the end of summer when unusually many road bikes are to be seen along the Playa de Palma, in the harbour of Alcúdia and on the MA-10 toward Formentor. As early as 7 a.m. chains clatter, and the scent of espresso mixes with that of chain oil — an unfamiliar but somehow homely soundscape.

Popular routes and who rides them

The classics are the same: the coastal road to the Formentor peninsula, the hairpins down to Sa Calobra, the coastal stretch at Pollença. Flatter, longer rides along Playa de Muro and Can Picafort also attract many. New is the mix of participants: alongside the usual guests from Germany, Switzerland and Great Britain, you increasingly see groups from the USA and Canada — often accompanied by local guides or in small organized teams. For a local view on routes see La vuelta perfecta al atardecer: la ruta de 50 km de Ackermann desde Palma y por qué ahora es el momento para pedalear.

You can feel it in the towns: Temporada alta para ciclistas en Mallorca: por qué la isla también late en otoño — hotels with bike garages are fully booked, rental bike companies take reservations weeks in advance and workshops from Port d'Alcúdia to the Serra de Tramuntana are running at full speed. Last week I watched a mechanic in Port d'Alcúdia who had three Shimano drivetrains in view at once and sprinted between repair stations — not a minute of free time, but satisfied faces.

What locals and visitors should keep in mind

Practical advice: get going early. After 10–11 a.m. it gets warm, the sun beats down, and buses from the tourist centres pick up speed. Water, energy bars and sunscreen belong in the saddlebag. On narrow mountain passes go slow and be predictable; show consideration for walkers, motorcycles and families with child trailers. The Policía Local occasionally carries out checks on popular routes — not only because of speed, but also for behaviour in traffic.

A tip from the road: if Sa Calobra is on the plan, ideally start in Escorca. Bring enough reserves; narrow tyres don't like surprises. And should your legs suddenly give out: ferry operators like Baleària sometimes take bikes, so a relaxed return trip is possible.

Opportunities for the island

For the local economy this is a real plus after summer: restaurants fill with tired but satisfied cyclists, bike shops sell spare parts and hotels earn with cycling packages in the low season. Workshops provide jobs, guides create ongoing bookings, and the small cafés at the starting points benefit from the early espresso rush. It's not just summer tourism, but a sporty extension that cushions seasonal fluctuations.

How the mood on site is

Locals' reactions range between visible delight about the economic upturn and the wish for calm coexistence. "Share rather than overtake" could be the motto here: clear rules, more togetherness on the road, and maybe better signage on the heavily used routes. Small measures — for example separate bike parking zones in the harbours or reserved parking spaces for buses — would already relax things a lot.

Looking ahead

Autumn in Mallorca has the potential to turn the island into a sporty but relaxed feel-good machine. For cyclists the conditions remain almost ideal: mild morning temperatures, spectacular coastal sections, challenging climbs and a wide range of services. For locals this means a welcome boost for restaurants and small businesses — and the chance to show visitors how to live together respectfully here.

Sometimes, when the sun already feels warm and a group of riders slowly huffs up the hill, the cup of espresso stays on the café counter and you hear only the rhythmic rattling of chains. Sounds like work? Maybe. Sounds like autumn in Mallorca? Definitely yes — and for many even a little celebration.

For context on the mountain range and its protection status, see the Serra de Tramuntana UNESCO listing.