Hotels Full, Streets Empty: Mallorca's Strange Summer Stroll

A summer with two faces: full beds, empty tables

On the Carrer de Sant Miquel last week a waiter stood in the sun with his arms folded, three empty tables in front of him. At the same time hoteliers have been reporting solid occupancy for weeks. Palma, Cala Major, Playa de Palma – the same picture: the beds are full, but the streets sound different, a pattern described in Empty Tables, Tight Wallets: Mallorca's Gastronomy at a Crossroads. No bustling clatter of cutlery, instead the distant whirr of scooters and the occasional call of the market woman at the Mercat de l'Olivar.

The key question: Who is here — and what stays in the local economy?

The central question is: why does the island fill with bodies but not with consumption? Hoteliers talk about stable occupancy rates and reliable flight connections. Restaurateurs, souvenir sellers and small shopkeepers, however, report declines in revenue, in some cases in double digits. In July the revenues of many establishments were below the previous year, and according to the industry the situation worsened in August. This is more than a seasonal up and down.

Drivers behind the phenomenon

One major factor is changed booking behaviour: longer all-inclusive stays and package deals keep guests inside the hotel. Guests who have breakfast, lunch and dinner at the resort do not stroll along the Paseo, do not buy porridge at the small baker and stay away from family-run tavernas. There is also a shift in source markets: more guests from countries such as India, Italy or the Czech Republic fill gaps left by German, British or Spanish visitors, a mix discussed in Mallorca in August: Fewer Regular Visitors, but the Cash Registers Are Ringing. That does not automatically compensate for lost turnover, because spending habits, length of stay and expectations differ.

Less discussed is another point: the structure of distribution channels. Large tour operators and OTA platforms often control the payment flows — commissions, fixed rates and package prices squeeze margins and tie guests to in-hotel offers. There are also logistical factors: missing or expensive transfers to rural town centres and the availability of supermarkets that offer a quick alternative to eating out.

The quiet consequences for villages and town centres

You can feel it in places like Port de Sóller or on Playa de Palma, as described in When the Beach Stays Empty: How Mallorca's Sunbed Renters and Chiringuitos Are Fighting to Survive: people stroll, but the tills ring less. A shop owner describes guests who walk a lot — the ironic term “diesel tourists” is in circulation — and yet leave little money in the town. Many small businesses have used up their reserves; they have kept staff, paid rents and borne energy costs. If September is weak, shop closures may follow and a less lively town centre in winter.

What is too rarely considered?

The heterogeneity of tourist groups is often overlooked: cruise passengers, daytrippers, families in all-inclusive resorts and active independent travellers behave differently. Equally important: working conditions and wages in the tourism sectors affect service quality and offerings. When staff are missing, smaller places close earlier, which further reduces the evening offer. Climate events — heatwaves or strong Tramuntana winds — also change daily rhythms and thus footfall and revenue in town centres.

Concrete opportunities and feasible solutions

It is not enough to lament the problems. Some small initiatives and structural ideas point the way out of the dilemma:

Cooperation between hotels and local businesses: Hoteliers could offer guest cards or vouchers that can be redeemed in partner restaurants and shops. Shuttle services to market days encourage spontaneous visits.

Events at the right time: Late market openings, after-beach concerts and culinary theme nights draw visitors from resorts into the town centres. An evening fish stall at the harbour or tapas routes with discount points can provide impulses.

Flexible dining offers: Smaller, budget-conscious lunch menus, family portions and more vegetarian/vegan options appeal to different guest types. Digital presence and simple online reservations make local offers more visible.

Strategic city passes: A combined pass offering discounts in museums, markets and eateries could make stays in town centres more attractive and encourage longer dwell times.

Subsidy programmes for the shoulder season: Subsidies or reduced fees for events and market stalls in September and October help build reserves and extend the season.

Looking ahead

September will be a test. City marketing, associations and hoteliers are already discussing joint concepts. It takes courage to cooperate: hotels must open up, towns must make offers more attractive and policymakers can help with targeted incentives. The sound of Mallorca — the murmur on the Paseo, the clatter of cutlery, the hum at the market — is not automatic. It emerges when people do not just sleep in the evening but also go out.

I believe the island needs more connections between what happens within hotel walls and what lives outside at the market, on the Paseo or along the promenade. Otherwise, at the end of the summer much more will remain empty than just a table.